When chef Andrew Berman says he plans to prepare a simple meal, wise listeners take his statement with a grain of salt. That’s because Berman — who spent more than 17 years as executive chef at Key West’s elegant Café des Artistes/Pisces and almost a decade as a partner in Kojin Noodle Bar — defines “simple” quite differently than most people do.
“It takes a lot of experience and a lot of time and hard work to make something beautiful that is simple,” said Berman, who has a background in fine French cuisine and is currently a personal chef in Florida’s St. Petersburg.
For example, he recently returned to Key West to stage an exclusive one-night-only dinner at the request of his former Kojin partner, chef Keith St. Peter.
St. Peter is the executive chef at the Key West Cooking School, located upstairs at 291 Front St. — and Berman’s sold-out six-course dinner was the first in the school’s planned “guest chef” events for cuisine connoisseurs.
The menu included caviar with crème fraiche, seared foie gras, short rib beef bourguignon and a dessert torte with chocolate custard ganache and white chocolate mousse.
“It was a countryside French dinner, using the best ingredients we could get hold of and preparing things very intelligently, with as little fuss as possible — keeping it simple,” said Berman, drawing on his unique definition of the word.
Each course was complemented by carefully selected wines or cocktails, and both cuisine and spirits drew rave reviews from diners.
“I was excited to start up the Guest Chef Series as a creative outlet and an exciting way to present fun new experiences to our patrons,” said St. Peter, who envisions staging exclusive dinners in the series several times each year.
Other upcoming special events at the school include a “Hemingway Feast” set for 11 a.m. Thursday, July 24. American literary legend Ernest Hemingway lived and wrote in Key West for most of the 1930s. The learn-and-dine offering is part of the annual Hemingway Days festivities, scheduled July 23-27 this year, that celebrate his connection to the island.
Attendees can savor a four-course meal of traditional Key West dishes from the author’s era — and learn to prepare them — during the demonstration-style class. Led by a chef-storyteller who recounts kitchen tips and tales, the culinary adventure even features the savory “grits and grunts” mentioned in Hemingway’s classic Key West novel “To Have and Have Not.” Advance reservations are required; call 305-294-2665.
Last Bites
Dish of the week: Grits and Grunts. Creamy, buttery grits are combined with small fish known as “grunts” in this hearty dish that was a Key West staple during the Depression. Simmered slowly in heavy whipping cream and chicken stock, grits are topped with the seasoned pan-seared fish for a unique fusion of flavors.
Helpful kitchen hack: Island residents whose fruit trees are producing over-abundant crops this summer can trade their harvest for a Key West Cooking School experience. Anyone who provides the school with a half-bushel of tropical fruit from one of a dozen species will receive a ticket to an entertaining learn-and-dine class. Fruit can be dropped off at the school from 8:30 to 9:30 a.m. on Tuesdays.
Hungry for more? Visit keywestcookingschool.com.
