The thought of writing about the Square Grouper in Islamorada has plagued me with anxiety. The kind of anxiety you get right before a big vacation – you’re excited to go but just want to make sure to cover all the bases before you leave.
Anyone who knows me personally knows I’m usually at the Square Grouper, whether it be a date night or friend outing. They have somehow managed to be so “Keysy” and yet make me feel like I’m not in the Keys at all. Their Instagram says “refined island dining” and that hits the nail on the head.
Look, I love our islands and community but we aren’t exactly known for our abundance of spots to get craft cocktails and unique appetizers. I cherish the simplicity of the Keys; in fact, I get quite overwhelmed with all the choices and constant change when I’m visiting the mainland. The Square Grouper however, keeps me on my toes. I never know what crazy delicious combination of flavors or textures will be offered on their specials. The anxiety writing this stems from my current column style of focusing on one dish at a time at each of my favorite restaurants. I do this because even the best restaurants have hits and misses and I love to spotlight the hits, or the underrated and overlooked home runs.
With the Square Grouper, this would mean I’m either writing about them every other week or I’m writing a four-page article. Cue the apprehension to pick one thing but also tell you everything I’m fond of. Just know this: my forewarning won’t be the last time I’m mentioning them at all.
Without a doubt our number one ordered entrée at the Square Grouper is their seafood pasta. Not long ago, I posted a story on my Instagram of me and some family driving to the Square Grouper. I mentioned somewhere in the story “can’t wait for the pasta!” My friend Jessie wrote to me, saying, “Pasta? I definitely don’t think of pasta when I think of the Square Grouper.” They only have one pasta dish on the menu and with all the tempting regular menu items and specials I can see how it goes unnoticed.
Seafood pasta is hard to execute correctly. It’s in its own world of pasta dishes. Let me tell you, they take al dente cavatappi pasta, which is such a great pasta shape for the whole Square Grouper vibe. It’s unique, not overused and has spring in its step. From scratch, they make the creamiest Key lime butter sauce you’ve ever had; not so thick it overwhelms the seafood but not so thin it disappears to the bottom of the bowl. It lays over the pasta and protein of choice like a nice velvet shawl. I usually ask for a small ramekin of extra sauce on the side.
Now for the protein choices – you have plenty of options here. They offer pan-sauteed shrimp, seared scallops, local fresh catch or lobster tail for us seafood lovers; chicken breast for those not in a seafood mood; lastly, Portabella mushroom or roasted cauliflower steak for some healthy options. I always get the choice they invented for indecisive patrons like myself, the seafood combo. Really, they’ll honor any combination you request. The seafood combo choice comes with shrimp, scallops and sauteed fish. I also ask for this blackened because if Emeril taught me anything, you should always “kick it up a notch!” They pair the dish with a couple of roasted tomatoes and a green, which I’ve seen vary from broccolini to asparagus to green beans.
I know dark beer doesn’t pair well with seafood, but the Square Grouper is one of the only establishments in the Keys with Wynwood Brewing’s Pop’s Porter, which is absolutely fantastic. So, I try to order that when I’m there. As I was typing that I thought, “oh wait, I love their cantaloupe martini as well.” Honestly, they’re so accommodating and friendly, you could easily just tell the waiter your spirit of choice and what flavor mood you’re in and they always whip up something one of a kind.
We haven’t even covered the tip of the iceberg with what the Square Grouper has to offer. And this is only their Islamorada location, not including their upstairs lounge. There is something fun in the air when you’re there. Being there makes you want to get that extra drink, splurge on one more appetizer and just have some good conversation and laughs. I’ve yet to have a bad visit. They season their food with passion and innovation. You can taste that they love what they do and growing up I was always told the most important secret ingredient is love – and garlic.
